With the trend of y2k in recent years finally coming to an end, we're seeing a resurgence of 90s and early 2000s deconstructive minimalism. The popularization of terms like "herion chic" first gained traction in the 90s by designers like Miu Miu and Prada; whose simplistic approach to design included muted color palettes and delicate feminine silhouettes. While the term now would be shunned due to its lack of inclusiveness, the key design elements of the trend still remain.
Helmut Lang RTW Fall 1996
Calvin Klein RTW Fall 1998
Designers like Ann Demeulemeester and Helmut Lang also took a simplistic approach to design but with a darker and edgier twist. Most notably to the general public, Calvin Kleins 90s era and classic black and white Ads can be referenced.
Ann Demeulemeester RTW Spring 1997
Calvin Klein 1996
Is the resurgence just a coincidence or does it make perfect sense in the current landscape of culture?
If we analyze trends from recent decades it makes perfect sense and could almost be predicted. Proceeding the explosion of minimalism in the late 90s there was the showiness of the 80s. Designers like Vivienne Westwood honed in on giving a voice to the messy punk scene of London while Versace dove head first into color and sexy silhouettes. Overall the 80s was world of color, expressiveness and maximalism in comparison to the late 90s. Much like the 2010's explosion of BBL fashion and logo mania in comparison to the now evolving 2020's which seems to be headed in the opposite direction.
Here are 3 upcoming designers to keep an eye on if you're interested in this revival.
Jane Wade
RTW Spring 2024
In her own words, Jane Wade is "A New York City based advanced contemporary womenswear brand thoughtfully bridging the gap between workwear and office attire". Her pieces are practical yet innovative and, challenge the complicity of standard office wear with complex silhouettes and attention to details.
Grace Ling
RTW Spring 2024
Prided on her commitment to zero waste production, Grace Ling focuses on designs for women that emanate an eccentric elegance and intelligent femininity. Founded on 3D-printing and CGI technology, the designs maintain an element of forward thinking complexity that is seamless and effortless.
A. Roege Hove
RTW Spring 2024
Founded by Amalie Røge Hove, A. Røge Hove is a conceptual knitwear brand that focuses on challenging traditions with a modern and artistic design approach to create silhouettes that are be both effortless and extravagant.
